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Saturday, 20 May 2017

The Pennine Way and Isaac's Tea Trail (North Pennines, Cumbria) May 19th
 A new walk, although we have probably wandered sections of it on previous outings. There are nine of us  today, a good turn out; John x 3, Ben, Brian, Harry, Ray, Dave and me almost a full turn out, only the sergeant missing. We are starting the walk in the small market town of Alston in Cumbria. The town shares with Buxton in Derbyshire the distinction of being the highest market town in England, at 1000 feet. Once a thriving place, the centre for the local mines which produced silver, lead, zinc, fluorspar and coal for centuries, dating back possibly to the Romans who built a fort nearby, now called Whitley Castle but then named Epiacum. We walked there once in winter, fine perimeter mounds of earth and little else. Up to the 19th century the London Lead Company which had connections with the Society of Friends was the main employer. The Society of Friends helped provide schools and medical services in the area.
Today the town depends on agriculture and tourism. Some years ago it was used in an ITV production of Oliver Twist and it was the place used for The League of Gentlemen.
 To get to Alston take the A69 west and just after the dual carriageway ends beyond Hexham take the A686 south, turn up into the town to the very top, turn left  and park in the Yorkshire car park which also has a fine looking childrens' playground.. A map would be useful: OS OL 31 The North Pennines.
We started the day as usual with tea/coffee/ bacon at the Cumbrian Pantry, a small café at the bottom of the cobbled high street.
                              And it's free!
Leaving the town we walked south along the road to Hartside. Just before the bridge over the South Tyne we followed the sign post on the left hand side of the road that took us along the river bank on the Pennine Way which is the longest walk in the UK, starting in Derbyshire and finishing just over the border in Scotland.
Walking on the east bank through woodland and across fields we eventually arrived at a footbridge taking us over the water. The path climbed away from the river giving spectacular views of the opposite bank, it seemed a good place to stop and have a Herbie although we had only covered 3.5 miles.
                     Crossing the South Tyne
                                Especially for the ladies who read this! We shared ginger biscuits from Ben, flapjack biscuits from John Ha., Cadbury Cake bars,  Snickers, Czech Chocolate (the last bars) and ginger cake from Mrs A. And we had sandwiches.
                  Looking down from the picnic spot to the South Tyne
Slightly heavier we moved on, slowly, crossing fields until we were just in Garrigill. A sign post for Bredley Hall sent us across a footbridge, although John C. and Dave walked across the river, and almost into the village.

                                             In Garrigill, almost.
We took the road by the old Methodist Chapel and after a short climb followed the faint but marked footpath across the moorland on the south east side of Middle Fell.
                               Take the road on the left of the old chapel

Even Ben with a masters in gate openings from the Open University had a bit of a struggle with this one.
Keeping to the west of Nenthead we walked through an area of old mine workings, down the delightfully named Greengill Hush before emerging from fields to the road at Grassfield.
After a short stretch on the road we took the footpath on the right and joined Isaac's Tea Trail.

Isaac Holden was a miner who took up selling tea to the villages and farms in the area. He was philanthropic, helping local chapels and schools and sold a photograph of himself for 6d, or 2.5 p in modern currency and probably worth at least £5 in today's money.
Having passed several cottages on the trail we walked down 120 steps (I counted them) reaching the road at Nenthall where there is a hotel and pub. Crossing the river we turned right and walked over fields alongside the River Nent before taking to the road again towards Blagill. Here we left Isaac and crossed fields to Gossipgate, crossed the river and walked over more fields back to Alston and the car park.
On the way home we stopped at Carts Bog pub and restaurant. The had two real ales on offer and some refreshing soda and lime for the driver.
I got this walk from the Walking Britain Site, walk number 1084. The difference is that author Andy Chaplin starts in Garrigil and goes clockwise plus we cut a corner off. It is a terrific walk, riverside paths, Lauder grass on the moors and superb views of the north Pennines.

The Matrix MMVII RRRR
                                                steps                            miles
NAK                                       33542                           12
Dave's 3D                               27034                           11.9
  ""  USB                                25140                            11.9
  "" NAK                                25063                            11.86
iPhone                                    28537                            12
OUTDOOR                                                                  11.9
 I forgot to ask John C. and Brian
Contains OS data. Copyright
Contains OS data, Copyright Crown copyright and database right 2017






















Saturday, 13 May 2017

Kippers, Castles and Kilns (Northumberland)  May 12th
 Five gadgies on an old favourite walk from Craster on the Northumberland coast to Seahouses some 10 miles north. Harry, Ben, Brian, Dave and I, squeezed into one car and driving up the A1 to Alnwick before turning east and finding the village whose name means"the camp where the crows live".
There is a large car park as you drive into the village, by the information centre, and at a mere £2 a day it is almost a Yorkshire car park. From the car park we walked to the Shorline Café for tea/coffee/bacon. A friendly little restaurant with seats outside for fine days but  today was coolish and overcast, as promised by the local TV station weather girl so we old gadgies sat inside.
Brian is considering starting a bacon butty blog but in case he doesn't here is a photo of today's fine example.
                                                   The Shoreline Café, Craster
                            The bacon sandwich
                                 Quality contents
                            And the car park in the old quarry
You can follow this walk without a map, keeping the sea on your right, but should you wish to follow the trail on paper it is covered by
OS Explorer 332 Alnwick and Amble and OS Explorer 340 Holy Island and Bamburgh.
Breakfast over we started the walk, passing the village pub The Jolly Fisherman, famous for its crab sandwiches, and the kipper smoking establishment, Craster being famous for its smoked herring.

                     When my girls were small we sang We're having kippers for Tea to the tune of "Save all your kisses for me" although we never did have them.
Beyond the smoke house we passed the small harbour, the tide was out and it was very quiet.


                           harbour, boats and lobster pots.
The walk goes in front of the row of houses in the picture above and through a gate into fields next to the sea. From here the ruins of Dunstanburgh Castle are plainly visible.


The ruined gatehouse at Dunstanburgh. Built in the 14th century by the House of Lancaster, the people who produced John of Gaunt.    
      
The Lilburne Tower on the west side of the castle, high above the footpath.
And beyond the castle is the now famous anticline;
The now famous anticline.


Taking care to avoid flying golf balls  we walked along the dunes before taking the path down to the beach on the curving and sandy Embleton Bay, just another of Northumberland's seaside gems.

Just before Low Newton by the Sea we headed for the Newton Pond Nature reserve and called a Herbie Spot in the relatively comfortable bird hide. Sharing Cadbury Caramel Cake, Czech chocolate, ginger biscuits by Ben and lemon cake from Mrs A, we watched the birds on the pond; swans, cormorant, herons, grey lag geese, a reed bunting and a variety of ducks.
                      The common cormorant......................
Lunch and ornithology over we continued heading north. Low Newton by the Sea has a square of cottages and a pub with a micro brewery. It has a reputation for good food and is often featured in newspaper articles about the fifty best pubs to eat in in Britain. Deservedly too.
           The Ship Hotel, Low Newton by the Sea.
A few yards up the road from the square a signpost on the right directs walkers back to the Northumberland Coastal Path. We walked across several fields by the sea before reaching Beadnell Bay. Usually we walk the beach but on this occasion stuck to the sand dunes until we came to the wonderfully named Long Nanny, crossed the footbridge and walked down to the sandy shore to get a good look at the Tern Colony on the south side of the stream. The colony is roped off and watched over by volunteers although it is difficult to keep the night time foxes out. There are two types of tern nesting there, Little and Arctic, and they are noisy.
Approaching Beadnell we cut through the car park instead of heading for the small harbour and its magnificent Limekiln.
             Limekilns at Beadnell, now used as storage by the local fishermen, there not being the demand for lime as a fertiliser.
Once out of the village, most of the houses seem to be holiday lets, we stayed on the sand dunes to Seahouses. Once across the stream as we approached the small resort and fish and chip capital of Northumberland, we took the footpath across the golf course, again carefully avoiding flying golf balls. We reached the harbour and headed for refreshment in the Olde Ship, a popular pub offering 10 different hand pulled beers, including Farne Island, Black Sheep and Directors.
                                  Seahouses harbour. Sail around the Farnes from here, see the birds and seals.
                           The quiet little back room in the Olde Ship. The bar was packed
Another good gadgy walk along the coast. From Seahouses we caught a bus back to Craster, making this a true gadgy walk as we saw herons and used bus passes.

Matrix MMXVII Q
                                                                       steps      miles
NAK                                                              29696        11.24
Dave's 3D                                                     23907         10.52
  "" USB                                                       23509          11.13
""    NAK                                                     23304          11.03
IPhone                                                          24801          11.2
OUTDOOR GPS                                                             10.4
Brian ran out of battery.
Contains OS data Copyright. Crown copyright and database right 2017

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