Lady Anne, the Landlord and the Wharfedale Blonde. August 2021, Yorkshire and Cumbria.

This year's long walk is a large section of the Lady Anne Way which wanders the dales from Skipton to Penrith. Four of us, Brian, Margaret, Dave and I are walking approximately two thirds of the walk, finishing in Kirkby Stephen which used to be in Westmoreland but for almost fifty years has been in Cumbria.

As usual we have used Mickledore to organise accommodation and transfers when needed and as usual Mickledore have come up with the goods.

Lady Anne Clifford was born in Skipton Castle in 1590. Eventually inheriting a series of castles she set out to restore them and some  churches.  Generous towards her tenants, she built alms houses in some places.

The walk is covered by three OS maps;

OS OL 2 Yorkshire Dales, South and West

OS OL30 Yorkshire Dales North and Central

OS OL 19 Howgill Fells and Eden Valley

Please note this is not a guide just a report on our walk. There is a guide book available written by Sheila Gordon  and titled Lady Anne's Way. Published by Skyware Ltd. ISBN 978-1-911321-02-06

It is also possible to download GPS maps from walkingenglishman.

Getting to the start;

Brian took the four of us plus four bags and four rucksacks to the start of the walk in Skipton.

On the way we stopped in Silsden, the small Yorkshire town where my elder sister and I were born. Yes, in the house.

                          Number 2, Cragg View, Silsden. No electricity, toilet in the yard, tin bath brought in from the yard. We moved when I was nearly five to a posh place with electricity and a bathroom.

We lunched in a small park and moved on to Skipton, checking in to a pub/hotel called the Woolly Sheep. The owners very kindly said we could leave the car in their yard all week so it seemed only fair that we eat and drink with them, especially as the pub had a full range of Timothy Taylor's fine ales.

                      Great Inn, great beer. Shame to leave.

Day 1

 Fully fed we walked up the high street to the church, turned left, crossed a bridge and found the start of the walk, opposite the:

                     The walk starts opposite the pie shop

From the start the trail goes directly north, crossing fields and the Skipton Golf Course to a road where we turned east down Brankenly Lane, under a railway bridge and on to the village of Embsay where there was a nice little coffee shop.

Morning break over we moved on down the village road, found a trail sign, cut across a couple of fields  to Eastby. After a short distance on a road we joined Bark lane, a track and headed East across fields to the wonderfully named Calm Slate which seemed to be the centre of the local ice cream industry.

                         Ice cream van convention.

Onwards to Halton East, looking for a marker, not always easy to find on the Lady Anne Way but having found it we headed north across fields and rough moorland to a road. Turning right we walked downhill, left at the junction and soon reached Barden Tower.

                        Barden Tower, one of Lady Anne's homes. On our walk it was being used for a wedding venue and we were politely asked to leave as it was  a private party.

A little further on past the tower we turned right and crossed the River Wharfe at Barden Bridge. From here we followed the riverside path across fields to Burnsall, the stop for the night.

                    The Manor House at Burnsall, part of the Red Lion hotel where we ate and drank. Amongst others, the Red Lion kept Wharfedale Blonde, a fine ale in my opinion.

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Day's distance  12.01 miles                                     Running total 12.01 miles (19.3 km)

Day 2

Leaving Burnsall after the full English breakfast we crossed the river and headed north east across fields to South View where the path turned north west and after more fields we were in Hebden.

Almost two miles later we were in Grassington, pretty village devoted to tourism so naturally we stopped for coffee and a little people watching.

Looking back at Grassington.

We re-joined the LAW at the north end of the village. For the next seven miles the path crosses fields and moorland but eventually we arrived in the village of Kettlewell, too late for another coffee but after a brief rest we headed off for Starbotton. Dave and Margaret followed the official route on the east side of the river, Brian and I walked the Dales Way on the west. We all arrived about the same time at the and some enjoyed a pint of Wharfedale Blonde before checking in at the Fox and Hounds for the night. It was also the eatery for the night.

Fox and Hounds, Starbotton, cosy friendly pub/hotel.

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Distance for the day 14.12 miles                                       Running total 26.13 miles (42.05 km)

Day 3 

We left the comfort of the Fox and Hounds after a substantial breakfast of bacon, egg, sausage, beans, hash browns, mushrooms and tomatoes. I declined the Black Pudding.

Crossing the river we followed the Dales Way path close to the water until we reached Dubb's Lane, crossed over the Wharfe again and reached the village of Buckden.

                           Views of Wharfedale.

From Buckden we made the first climb of the walk, hauling ourselves uphill through Rakes Wood to Buckden Rake and the start of the almost eight mile walk across fairly flat moorland. 

                       Addleborough, aka Table Mountain. Visible everywhere near Askrigg

Looking down on Seemer Water.

Eventually the path started to go down from the open and rather boring moorland to the village of Worton. Here we crossed the River Ure and crossed fields into Askrigg. From Askrigg we had a pre-booked taxi to Hawes, our next stop. Having some time to wait we went to the King's Arms which sold King's Blonde.

The taxi took us to the White Hart hotel in the centre of Hawes where we stayed and ate. Great pub/hotel with an interesting local character.

                            Contains OS data, copyright. Crown copyright and database right 2021

                                White Hart Inn, Hawes. Ynnuf kcolc.

Distance for the day13.45 miles                                          Running total 39.58 miles (63.7km)

Day 4.

After the usual breakfast we were taken back by taxi to Askrigg. As on day 3 we had cut out the last section of the LAW we walked back across fields to Worton and then to Nappa Hall, a small ruin. From Nappa we returned to Askrigg although we managed to get split up and I finished in a very fine but private garden. Back, eventually in Askrigg we had coffee before setting off again.

From Askrigg the path heads west across farm land until it reaches Sedbusk, small village but some shelter from the rain which had started. After a break we continued through a succession of spring stiles which are sometimes so narrow it's a squeeze through. Having reache Simonstone House, a fine looking hotel we headed down hill to Hardraw and the Green Dragon, once visited on the Tributaries Walk (qv).

                                  Simonstone House hotel

                                 It has fine views too

                           Green Dragon at Hardraw. Timothy Taylor's Landlord on draught. Just what was needed after a hard day's walk.

From Hardraw it was a short walk across the fields back to Hawes and dinner in the White Hart. On the way we watched two young ladies and one collie round up a flock of sheep and drive them on. Two girls and a dog, good idea for a TV programme.

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Day's distance 10.15 miles                                      Running total 49.73 miles (80 km)

Day 5

After another substantial English style breakfast we set off again from Hawes, walking through the village to find the LAW path which initially heads west across fields then north to the hamlet of Appersett. From here we followed the River Ure to Collier Holme Farm where we started a long steep climb up Cotter End. Fortunately there was a bench at the top for a well earned rest. Once on the move again we had an easy walk contouring along the Highway which is possibly an ancient drove road. We crossed Hell Gill Bridge which was rather disappointing , continued on Old Road to The Thrang where we crossed the valley road and crossed fields to Outghill.

The taxi took us to Redmayne House in Kirkby Stephen where we were welcomed by Liz and Rob. An offer of tea and cake was very welcome and Liz kindly offered to have our wet clothes dried.

                                          Art on the hill

At Outhgill we had a short wait for our pre arranged taxi. We waited under a Yew Tree in the grounds of St Mary of Mallerstang, a church restored by Lady Anne in 1663

                         St Mary of Mallerstrang, Outhgill

                                      Staue of Lady Anne Clifford in Kirkby Stephen

                            Redmayne House, parts of which date from 1648

In the evening we took a taxi to the Black Bull in Nateby. A very busy  pub, obviously popular on a Sunday but they supplied us with a welcome dinner and Bombardier ale.

                                   Black Bull at Nateby

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Day's distance  11.76 miles                                                       Running total 61.49 miles (98.9km)

Day 6.

Breakfast over were taken by taxi back to Outhgill on the last day of our walk. Going back through the churchyard we crossed the river and headed north to Pendragon Castle, another ruin.

From the ruin we followed footpaths over fields and down narrow lanes. Some of the lanes were so narrow and the nettles were so high we could have done with a achete or two. The route bypassed Nateby, following the River Eden, crossed a dismantled railway and entered Kirkby Stephen by Frank's Bridge, the start of a popular local walk. After tea in the town we headed back to Redmayne House to freshen up before a final meal on the walk back at the Black Bull in Nateby.

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Day's distance 6.2 miles                                                              Final total 67.69 miles (109km)

Going Home

Next day, after a large breakfast, we were taken by taxi to Kirkby Stephen station from where we caught a train to Skipton. Once of the train, and watching it disappear, one member of the party admitted to having left a rucksack on board. The railway company were very helpful. Unable to contact the train directly the rucksack loser was permitted to travel on the next train to Leeds where the item was still on our train, which fortunately had not started its return. The sack was retrieved, the owner returned to Skipton and we set off home. Those of us who remained in Skipton wandered the town and viewed this fine statue.

Fiery Fred, great Yorkshire and England bowler. My childhood hero.

And a few views on the way.

Oh we do like to be beside the Teeside. (Durham) 

August: Friday 13th 

Holidays hit numbers again, there are four of us out for a gentle walk from Barnard Castle along the River Tees. The four are: Me, Dave, Harry and John H.

Barnard Castle is a small market town on the river Tees in County Durham. There are several ways of reaching it so no directions today.

The map to use is OS OL 31 North Pennines but it is a well poste walk and could be followed without the assistance of the Ordnance Survey.

At the bottom of the street, turn left by the old town market and turn left again into the long term car park. It costs £1.50 for four hours, but after 2 pm it is free, so arriving at 10.30 we got a bargain.

All day for £1.50! 

The walk:

 We left the car park, turned right and right again at the ancient octagonal market built in 1747 and walked up the busy main street. Barnard Castle is a fine old market town, very busy with a variety of stores, especially opticians, one of the towns specialities.

                 The old market, dating from 1747 and one of the many shops, quiet at the moment.

At the top of the street we turned  left, passing a chapel and the green in front of the ruined castle.

The castle; dates from 1125 and was connected to Bernard de Baliol. The family were connected to Baliol College Oxford. At one time the castle was the property of the Duke of Gloucester who became Richard III

From here we followed the Teesdale Way, crossing a footbridge and walking a stony path close to the river, generally fairly level but with short up and downs. Approaching East Holme the path climbs away from the river and crosses fields  until, after four miles it heads down again towards the Tees. We crossed the river by the footbridge, turned left, crossed the River Balder by the footbridge and settled own on a couple of benches for a Herbie.

                       The Tees from the footbridge

                                 Metal plate on the footbridge

                                                   And the footbridge!

                      Fine stone bench and Herbie Spot. We shared apple pies, Snickers and almond slices, admiring the view of the river as we ate.

Lunch over we walked to the village of Cotherstone, turned left to follow the long village street before turning right and walking past the village church. Cotherstone used to be in the North Riding of Yorkshire but after changes to boundaries in the 1970's found itself in County Durham.

                                     St Cuthbert's church, Cotherstone. Built in 1881.

Not far up the hill from the church we found the Tees Railway Path and headed back on the dismantled railway towards Barnard Castle.

At the corner of Spring Wood we left the Railway Path and crossed a field to join a seond dismantled railway. Strictly speaking this is not the official footpath but it is popular with walkers and mountain bikers.

We walked the overgrown path to Pecknell Wood. At the buttress of the old Barnard Castle Railway bridge the path goes downhill to join the Teesdale Way on the south bank of the river.

Once it carried a steel framed bridge over the river to Barnard Castle.

From here we walked the road to Deepdale aqueduct, crossed the bridge and headed back to town, changed and went home!

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The walk is just over 8.5 miles, mostly easy going with a few short steep climbs away from the river bank.

                               Helpful gate for dogs!

                                          Fine ladder stile

                        Many Teesdale farms are whitewashed

                                            Teesdale way sign, slightly out of focus. It's a dipper

                        The path goes under the bridge. We cheated and climbed up to the railway, as others had obviously done

 Going Green. (Northumberland) August 1st.

 An extra walk for me having been invited by John Lockey to join the Gosforth Green walkers for a day on Hadrian's Wall. How could I resist, always enjoy the wall walks. A group of ten, mixed but mostly mature, we met at the car park at Housesteads, probably the most popular place to visit on the wall as it has a shop, a museum and a fort.

Reached by going west on the A69 turning north just beyond Hexham and going through Acomb and Wall to Chollerford. Continue for some miles on the B6138 (Military Road) to the car park on the right at Housesteads. Run by the National Trust the car park relies on number plate recognition to charge visitors. Pay as you leave, more about that later. 

The map for the walk is OS OL 43 Hadrian's Wall but is not essential.

Car park at Housesteads, with shop that sells serious books, fun books, plastic swords and ice cream.

We started the walk from the car park, going between the shop and the toilets, past the slide and on to the gravelled path that climbs uphill to the museum, the fort and the wall itself. Not having a ticket for either we passed the museum and the fort entrance to a gate that took us to the Hadrian's Wall Path which at this point is also part of the Pennine Journey, a long distance walk not to be confused with the famous Pennine Way. We headed east alongside the fort which the Romans called Vercovicium.

                      Vercovicium, occidenta porta as you knew.

The footpath crosses the wall itself as the route climbs up and down, carefully designed to keep those legionnaires fit and healthy. It passes one milecastle and several turrets before reaching Sewingshields.

      Wall and turret number 35B. (Milecastles and turrets are numbered from east to west)

Sewingshields has nothing to do with clothing, it comes from Old English "Sigewine's Shiels". A shield being a little hut. At the farm we took the gravelled road downhill. On the right, looking carefully it is possible on a good day to see the outlines of Medieval Fish Ponds. Today we saw a large bull in one field and a small collection of trucks, trailers and sheep in another. It was thought there was going to be a sheep dog trial but there was no sight nor sound of dogs.

                       He would not pose for a photo

Someway beyond the last field, and a bit hard to spot, we took a path on the left that crosses open country below the Sewingshield Crags, Kings Crags and Queens Crags.

Sewingshield crags. The wall is on the edge of them.

Finding a group of rocks we halted for lunch, the Greens not being familiar with holding a Herbie there was no sharing. Probably as well as there were ten of us.

                                     Lunchtime with the Greens.

Moving on after lunch we followed the path which goes between Broomlee Lough and Greenlee Lough until we met the Pennine Way, the longest of Britain's long distance footpaths.  

                                     Self explanatory.

The Pennine Way path climbed fairly gently up to the wall. On reaching Hadrian's monument we turned left and headed east up and down a few slopes back to Housesteads.

                        Back on the Wall Path. The dry stone wall on the left is of much later construction and marks the division between fields not territory.

                                  Looking towards Housesteads. That is the wall this time.

            Milecastle 37, showing the northern gate which led into the land of the barbarians, or Scots.

                               One of the few places where you can actually walk on the remains of the wall, approaching Housesteads.

Back at the car park we tackled the National Trust park and pay machine. We were required to punch in our car registration number. The machine then showed the amount we needed to pay. Payment by card only, no coins. For five hours parking John and I paid £7, a couple who had arrived ten minutes before us were charged a disgraceful £9. The lady who had a personalised number plate (Like M 1 KEY) confused the machine and she had to negotiate an agreed time. Considering the number of cars in the park the National Trust must have taken a small fortune. And it's a charity.

We called in at the Errington Coffee Shop on the way home. It used to be a pub and restaurant but now serves teas and bottled beer. Very nice too and it's built on top of a gateway in the wall.

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The walk is about 7 miles with some short steep climbs and plenty of people.