Hope that doesn't offend Tolkieners.
It's that time of year again when I forsake my wife and the gadgies and head off to the small town of Bilina in Bohemia, part of the Czech Republic and a place I have now been visiting since 1992.
I left Newcastle at 2.30pm on April 10th, arrived at Vaclav Havel airport two hours later and was whisked away by Peter who is a policeman and carries a gun. Helena, my host was with him. More exciting he has one of those Kojak style flashing lights that sticks to the top of his car, but he won't use it for me. When we arrived in Bilina I was taken first to Bezovka, my "hotel" for the next three nights and now renamed in my mind as the Fawlty Towers of Czechia. Having booked in we went to Helena's house for supper with her husband Pavel and after traditional ham and dumplings and Pilsner Urquel I returned to Fawlty Towers.
Bezovka, room and non working TV
Bezovka, outside and in. It is a b and b with a restaurant and a bar and two lanes for ten pin bowling.
The young man who runs it is very friendly, we converse in a mixture of simple German and English. He is, unfortunately, rather forgetful, it is necessary to keep reminding him that yes, you would be here for breakfast and scrambled eggs would be fine thank you. The place is currently suffering from renovations too, bits and pieces all over the place.
Regardless, I slept well.
April 11th; Prague from a different point of view.
After the scrambled eggs and chleb (a type of rye bread, really nice and chewy)) I walked to Bilina station to meet Pavel and Helena and the three of us caught a direct train to Prague, a journey along river valleys of about two hours. (Bilina, Laben {Elbe} and Vlatava I think. Proof of my Geography teachers dictum that railways follow rivers).
Bilina station, very Soviet
Bilina is a mining town with a huge open cast pit, washing plant and power station.
It is also a very old town dating back 1000 years. A tiny fraction of the walls remain
Prague bound train.
I have been to Prague a dozen times at least, and tell all my friends they should visit. Over the years I have seen all the tourist spots like the beautiful Charles Bridge, the castle, the cathedral and the famous clock in the town square. This visit was a little different, from the main station we took an underground train a few stops before catching a tram to see the Prague Park Tower or Zizkov as it is called. This TV tower, built between 1985 and 1992 is 216 metres high (707 feet). Part of the way up it has observation platforms and at a mere 66metres (207 feet) there is a restaurant which we visited.
Spectacular views over the city, as you would expect, and a close up of one of the babies that decorate the outside of the tower.
Prague Park TV tower
Some of the babies
The city
and a close up of a faceless baby.
Visit over we took a tram back to the city centre and had lunch at "Finger Foods", pick what you want from the buffet and pay by weight. Sadly two of the tines on my plastic fork broke off and had Pavel not warned me I could have suffered the modern equivalent of a fish bone.
The next move was to the Strahov Kloster, a working monastery not too far from the castle. Last year it had been closed to ordinary people, a term I despise, because the President of China was visiting.
Pavel and Helena and Prague Castle
We walked round the monastery and headed downhill to Mala Strana to catch a tram back across the river to Wenceslas Square.. Wandering the streets we finally came to the highlight of the day, the Pater Noster.
The Pater Noster is a type of lift, or two of them alongside each other. Both consist of a series of cages which rotate in a vertical loop, one going up and one going down and both moving continuously. To go up you need to step smartly onto the cage floor as it passes or jump and then step off at the floor you need, just as smartly. To come down you use the other lift which is going in the opposite direction. I tried it, successfully going up but opting for stairs coming down.unfortunately I didn't take a photo.
Nearby was this interesting shiny moving work of art.
Street art, installation, whatever. It looked good.
After coffee and cake we caught a train back to Bilina, some supper and a night in Bezovka.
April 12th. Back in school again
Back in the Bilina Gymnasium to talk, in English to three classes about "Life in the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland", this year's Powerpoint Presentation I had made. The eleven year olds were rewarded for putting up with me with a "Quality Street". Old man giving children sweets eh!
The sixth form showed some interest in Brexit, we had an interesting conversation. They are pro European and wanted the UK to stay.
For lunch I went to the school canteen for chicken, red cabbage and "Easter stuffing", very similar to our Christmas stuffing.
An enthusiastic audience.
In the afternoon Helena and I joined her brother and his wife for a trip to Strekov Castle, high above the Laben (Elbe) near Usti. This ancient castle guards the gateway to Bohemia and was once, apparently, inhabited by river pirates who made a living capturing vessels on the river below by stretching chains from bank to bank.
Strekov Castle high above the river, must have taken a whole heap of peasants to build.
April 13th, Liberec
We were to catch a train to the city of Liberec, fifth largest in Czechia and getting close to the Polish border, at 8.14 so I got up early to wash and dress and walk the mile to the station. Fawlty Towers was up to scratch, there was no water in basin or shower. It transpired later that it had been cut off to allow pipes to be rearranged, somebody could have said. Remembering the supermarket Albert had a pretty good wash room I scuttled own there, washed, bought some gum to clean my teeth and got to the station.
Pavel, Helena and I set off to Liberec, changing trains in Usti nab Leben. Arriving at our destination we headed for the Pension Jasmine which had hot water and BBC World news on the TV. It can be a boring station but at least it gave me some idea of what was going on. (Actually I had the Times on my phone too, but TV is TV.)
We spent the afternoon exploring the centre of the town, new shopping centre, new cinema and trams with three rails.
Jested TV tower, restaurant and hotel |
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