Killin
Time............July 11 to 18th
This years "gentlemen's week" is a return to Killin, same town, different chalets. Unfortunately we are down in numbers because of injuries, family commitments, unable to get away or whatever.
We are, this year, Brian, Norman, John H, John C, Ben and me and in two cars we set off on the morning of Saturday July 11th for Killin, loaded down with 72 pints of Tyneside Blonde, 36 pints of Shuggy Boat Blonde and 36 pints of Shuggy Boat Blonde Special. Plus some food, and walking gear.
No directions for Killin, it's in Scotland at the end of Loch Tay.
A few words about the site though. This year we are staying in the Loch Tay Highland Lodges, about seven miles east of Killin on the north side of the loch. The site offers several types of accommodation.....
Upside down boats: microwave and kettle, sleeps four maybe.
Big plastic tents, sleeps two, wood burning stove
Wooden yurts. (Oh Mrs. Whitehead); sleeps up to five,
kitchenette, bathroom, TV
Chalets; timber, sleep up to six, bathroom, one room with en suite
dishwasher, micro oven, washing machine, TV, . Norman,
John C, Ben and I stayed in one called "Crannog"
Stone cottage, "The Ivy Tree" home to Brian and John H
We arrived in the afternoon set up the beer barrels, complete with proper hand pumps, unpacked, wandered the site and went for dinner in the Capercaillie Restaurant in Killin. A group of young men were celebrating somebody's 21st. They were dressed as gillies and were enjoying themselves and entertaining us. After dinner we returned to our chalets and sampled the beer.
Sunday July 12th
A walking week needs a gentle start to ease us in to the weeks endeavours so we chose to drive to Lochearnhead and walk back to Killin on the old railway line. A linear walk needing some logistics.
Both cars, 1 and 2, were driven to Lochearnhead and four gadgies were left there. Brian and I drove back to Killin in both cars, left car 1 there and returned to Lochearnhead in car 2. We now had a car at both ends. If you can do this better let me know. There may of course have been buses.
A feast of car parks this week, this one is at Lochearnhead.
We walked south out of town until we spotted the sign saying Railway Walk, Killin, 7 miles, climbed a path up to the old track and headed back to Killin.
It's easy to follow, well signed but if you need a map go for OS Landranger 51, Loch Tay and Glen Lochart. The views over Glen Ogle are fine and naturally the walk is fairly level. At one point the path crosses the main road up the glen and almost immediately there is a snack bar caravan selling bacon butties, very popular with a group of motorcyclists, but we walked a little further on to a picnic area which was very popular with Scottish midgies but still we called a Herbie Stop
Easy walking on day 1
. Viaduct on the old line.
There is no exchange of goodies on gentlemen's week walks. Because of the midgies we didn't hang around but hurried on. The footpath joins the Rob Roy Way, a fairly long distance path. At one point the path forks, we took the left hand and walked downhill, rejoined the old railway and headed back to Killin. We stopped to admire The Falls of Dochart, one of the small town's major attractions. In full spate because of recent heavy rain.
Not exactly Niagara, but impressive.
We then reversed the car manoeuvres described above and returned to the site for tea and cake. Not just any cake but one made especially for the trip. Moist fruit cake, icing, decorations.
This years gentlemen's fruit cake, from www.cakepoppins.co.uk .
Having showered and changed, we are all well house trained, it was time for dinner. Tonight's dinner came courtesy of Mrs E. Her special, home made spicy meatballs in sauce. Considering Mrs E is a life long vegetarian she excels at making them especially when she can't taste the sauce as it is being prepared. Eaten with rice and mixed vegetables and followed by cake and custard. (Not the fruit cake) and a few beers as we watche the highlights of Le Tour de France.
A short walk of 8.5 miles by GPS, 7.6 by pedometer (20791 steps)
Contains OS Data Copyright. Crown copyright and Database right 2015.
Monday July 13th
Another damp day. A woodpecker was attacking the feeder outside our chalet, Greater Spotted and sharing the nuts with finches.
After breakfast we headed for the dam at the end of Loch Daimh. The road to the dam is narrow with passing places and lots of wandering sheep which seem to prefer the road to the grass. For this walk OS Landranger 51 is fine, although a larger scale map would be better. We left cars at GR NN511463 which is an area just off the road with room for 3 or 4 vehicles and a large sign warning hill walkers that stag hunting may be taking place so keep your head down.
Car park for today, dam in the background.
We crossed the road in front of the dam and followed the track for a short way before spotting the cairn at the side of the road which indicated the footpath that led up to Stuc an Lochain (Peak with little loch) The path was steep and slippy because of the recent rain but after a mile of steady climbing we reached the plateau of the peak and wandered on in the light mist to the summit cairn where we called a Herbie Spot at 960 metres(3149 feet)
and misty views.
We returned the same way, going down the steep section proved more difficult than going up.
A short walk, GPS said 5.8 miles, but hard ones, pedometer excelled with 7.8 miles and 22367 steps.
Lunch on Stuc an Lochain
The dam on Loch Daimh, in a clear spell
Back at the ranch we were treated to a magnificent plate pie by Norman with baked vegetables and followed by home made ice cream from Ben, followed by Tyneside Blonde and Le Tour de France.
Tuesday July 14th
A better day; we decided to tackle Ben Vorlich which is on the south side of Loch Earn. The start of this walk is on OS 51 but most of the walk is on OS Landranger 57 Stirling and the Trossachs which is the name of the map not a punk group.
Today's car park
Ben Vorlich in the mist
Trig point on the Ben
Herbie Spot on Vorlich
The walk starts near Ardvorlich House, there is enough space on the side of the road for about ten cars at GR NN 632232. The walk is clearly signed just to the east of Ardvorlich House and a good track leads past a farm building housing a hydro electric generator. Initially winding through woodland the stone track head almost due south, becoming a grassed path but leading gently at first to the summit of Ben Vorlich. ( Mount of the Bay) The last stretch is much steeper but zig zags to assist an ageing gadgie. On the small plateau walkers are greeted by a trig point and the summit is a few yards further on. (984m; 3228 feet)
A better view from Ben Vorlich
Having eaten we headed back towards the trig point but then turned west down a very steep and stony track which led to the massive rocky outcrop on Stuc a Chroin (Dangerous Peak !!!!) Not wishing to climb this we followed a less rocky but almost equally steep footpath which emerged on the flat top of the mountain. The peak was a few hundred yards away and we stopped to admire views and eat anything that was left before heading north, down a steep path at Bealach an Dubh Chorein. The footpath followed contours but was not easy to follow, it was muddy and slippy but eventually we joined the path we had started on and returned to the cars.
On the way down we chatted to a 77year old gentleman who told us he had only managed the Ben today but for his 80th birthday had promised himself to climb Ben Lui - again. Hope we all do as well. Unfortunately Brian had a puncture but mechanic Ben had the wheel changed in no time and we headed home after a walk of 10 miles by GPS but 12.95 by pedometer (36546 steps)
For dinner we were treated to a curry by John H. Not too spicy but a tasty mixture of chicken and vegetables with brown rice. Too full for pudding we watched a couple of episodes of the still hilarious Scottish sitcom Still Game, a bit like The last of the Summer Wine, but dirtier!
Wednesday July 15th
Another day of doubtful weather. We decided to walk along the side of the loch from the site and make it to Killin. This proved rather difficult. A footpath through the woods to the west of the chalets came to a dead end and we had to walk up to the road. After a while we found a path that appeared to lead down to the water and it did, but no further. Back on the road we continued to the gates of the power station near Finlarig. The sign on the gate said welcome so we went in. A young man operating a grass cutter initially seemed unhelpful but eventually said it was possible to make it to Killin. At this point it dawned that we would be walking a total of seven miles to the town and then another seven back, much of it on a road. I volunteered to walk back and get a car and meet the lads in Shutters Cafe in the town. It was agreed, I returned and reached the cafe minutes before the rest of the crew did. Pedometer said I walked 6.75 miles, they did 7
We started the evenings feasting with tapanards made by Ben, a paste made of anchovies and spices spread on toast and washed down with sherry. Brian had made a chili and rice, but forgot the vegetables, they are still in the freezer. Tyneside Blonde and cycling, a pleasant evening.
Thursday July 16th
The plan for today was to climb Ben Lawers but doubtful weather and tired limbs helped persuade us that a flattish walk would be a better bet. Norman proposed a walk he knew from Kenmore at the east end of Loch Tay to Aberfeldy, mostly on a path that followed contours. Cars were organised in the same way as Sunday's expedition and we started walking from the Crannog car park in Kenmore.
Car park in Kenmore. The triangle shape at top left is the roof of the Crannog. A crannog is a type of house built some 2500 years ago, consisting of a round house built on a platform above the water and joined to the shore by a walkway. The one in Kenmore is a replica, surprisingly! We went round it last year and the centre is well worth a visit. There were at least 18 crannogs on Loch Tay.
For this walk rely on OS 51 to start but most of the walk is on OS 52 which I haven't got. However the walk is very well signposted, you could do it without a map.
From the centre we headed along the road south west to the hamlet of Acharn. Here a sign post points uphill to the Hermit's Cave and Circular Walk. We followed it up the slope to woodland where we came to the said hermit's cave, more like a tunnel which brought us to a viewing platform overlooking a waterfall.
The hermit's water supply, beautiful.
John C, Brian, John H, Norman, Ben
on the platform near the waterfall.
From the cave we climbed a little more before joining the Rob Roy Way heading north east to Aberfeldy. We crossed fields and walked through woodland until we came to a road near Tombuis Cottage. We sat on the side of the road to eat lunch before continuing on our way. The views over the valley were spectacular, in the distance we could see Schiehallion, this area is certainly not the Appin of Dull as it is named on the map.
It looks much better in reality
But it inspired Rabbie Burns to write a poem
The braes ascend like lofty wa's
The foamy stream deep-roaring fa's
O'erhung wi' fragrant spreading shaws,
The birks of Aberfeldy.
(verse three)
Actually he was trying to persuade a young lady to go up there to admire the view. And quite right, it is impressive, and from the falls it's a long long way down to the town on a well constructed path with steps on the really steep bits.
Rab C Burns, Norman, John C,Brian
This walk was longer than Norman had thought. GPS said 12.3 miles, pedometer claimed 11.3 with 32100 steps.
Back at the chalet we fed on Spaghetti Bolognese made by John C, and we ate every scrap before tapping the barrel of Shuggy Boat Blonde Special, it helps with Le Tour and Still Game.
Friday July 17th.
During the night it rained, heavily and with thunder. Most of the morning it rained heavily too but by lunch time we decided we needed to get out at least and went to look round Killin. The town has one or two points of interest. We visited the long house at Moirlanach, which is owned by the Scottish National Trust and only opens on Wednesday and Saturday but we did get to look through the window. This old building was home for a family for several hundred years up to the 1960s. The family at one time were self supporting, keeping a few cows, chickens and sheep, growing vegetables and a crop. One end of the building housed animals over the winter, the other end was home. Shame it was shut.
We also visited the ruins of the castle, more like a bastle house. The grounds contained the graves of some Campbells, nineteenth century Campbells that is.
The Longhouse, originally thatched
Inside "Crannog" chalet
Beer pump just to the right of the window
Time............July 11 to 18th
This years "gentlemen's week" is a return to Killin, same town, different chalets. Unfortunately we are down in numbers because of injuries, family commitments, unable to get away or whatever.
We are, this year, Brian, Norman, John H, John C, Ben and me and in two cars we set off on the morning of Saturday July 11th for Killin, loaded down with 72 pints of Tyneside Blonde, 36 pints of Shuggy Boat Blonde and 36 pints of Shuggy Boat Blonde Special. Plus some food, and walking gear.
No directions for Killin, it's in Scotland at the end of Loch Tay.
A few words about the site though. This year we are staying in the Loch Tay Highland Lodges, about seven miles east of Killin on the north side of the loch. The site offers several types of accommodation.....
kitchenette, bathroom, TV
dishwasher, micro oven, washing machine, TV, . Norman,
John C, Ben and I stayed in one called "Crannog"
We arrived in the afternoon set up the beer barrels, complete with proper hand pumps, unpacked, wandered the site and went for dinner in the Capercaillie Restaurant in Killin. A group of young men were celebrating somebody's 21st. They were dressed as gillies and were enjoying themselves and entertaining us. After dinner we returned to our chalets and sampled the beer.
Sunday July 12th
A walking week needs a gentle start to ease us in to the weeks endeavours so we chose to drive to Lochearnhead and walk back to Killin on the old railway line. A linear walk needing some logistics.
Both cars, 1 and 2, were driven to Lochearnhead and four gadgies were left there. Brian and I drove back to Killin in both cars, left car 1 there and returned to Lochearnhead in car 2. We now had a car at both ends. If you can do this better let me know. There may of course have been buses.
We walked south out of town until we spotted the sign saying Railway Walk, Killin, 7 miles, climbed a path up to the old track and headed back to Killin.
It's easy to follow, well signed but if you need a map go for OS Landranger 51, Loch Tay and Glen Lochart. The views over Glen Ogle are fine and naturally the walk is fairly level. At one point the path crosses the main road up the glen and almost immediately there is a snack bar caravan selling bacon butties, very popular with a group of motorcyclists, but we walked a little further on to a picnic area which was very popular with Scottish midgies but still we called a Herbie Stop
There is no exchange of goodies on gentlemen's week walks. Because of the midgies we didn't hang around but hurried on. The footpath joins the Rob Roy Way, a fairly long distance path. At one point the path forks, we took the left hand and walked downhill, rejoined the old railway and headed back to Killin. We stopped to admire The Falls of Dochart, one of the small town's major attractions. In full spate because of recent heavy rain.
We then reversed the car manoeuvres described above and returned to the site for tea and cake. Not just any cake but one made especially for the trip. Moist fruit cake, icing, decorations.
Having showered and changed, we are all well house trained, it was time for dinner. Tonight's dinner came courtesy of Mrs E. Her special, home made spicy meatballs in sauce. Considering Mrs E is a life long vegetarian she excels at making them especially when she can't taste the sauce as it is being prepared. Eaten with rice and mixed vegetables and followed by cake and custard. (Not the fruit cake) and a few beers as we watche the highlights of Le Tour de France.
A short walk of 8.5 miles by GPS, 7.6 by pedometer (20791 steps)
Monday July 13th
Another damp day. A woodpecker was attacking the feeder outside our chalet, Greater Spotted and sharing the nuts with finches.
After breakfast we headed for the dam at the end of Loch Daimh. The road to the dam is narrow with passing places and lots of wandering sheep which seem to prefer the road to the grass. For this walk OS Landranger 51 is fine, although a larger scale map would be better. We left cars at GR NN511463 which is an area just off the road with room for 3 or 4 vehicles and a large sign warning hill walkers that stag hunting may be taking place so keep your head down.
We crossed the road in front of the dam and followed the track for a short way before spotting the cairn at the side of the road which indicated the footpath that led up to Stuc an Lochain (Peak with little loch) The path was steep and slippy because of the recent rain but after a mile of steady climbing we reached the plateau of the peak and wandered on in the light mist to the summit cairn where we called a Herbie Spot at 960 metres(3149 feet)
We returned the same way, going down the steep section proved more difficult than going up.
A short walk, GPS said 5.8 miles, but hard ones, pedometer excelled with 7.8 miles and 22367 steps.
Tuesday July 14th
A better day; we decided to tackle Ben Vorlich which is on the south side of Loch Earn. The start of this walk is on OS 51 but most of the walk is on OS Landranger 57 Stirling and the Trossachs which is the name of the map not a punk group.
Loch Earn
Having eaten we headed back towards the trig point but then turned west down a very steep and stony track which led to the massive rocky outcrop on Stuc a Chroin (Dangerous Peak !!!!) Not wishing to climb this we followed a less rocky but almost equally steep footpath which emerged on the flat top of the mountain. The peak was a few hundred yards away and we stopped to admire views and eat anything that was left before heading north, down a steep path at Bealach an Dubh Chorein. The footpath followed contours but was not easy to follow, it was muddy and slippy but eventually we joined the path we had started on and returned to the cars.
On the way down we chatted to a 77year old gentleman who told us he had only managed the Ben today but for his 80th birthday had promised himself to climb Ben Lui - again. Hope we all do as well. Unfortunately Brian had a puncture but mechanic Ben had the wheel changed in no time and we headed home after a walk of 10 miles by GPS but 12.95 by pedometer (36546 steps)
For dinner we were treated to a curry by John H. Not too spicy but a tasty mixture of chicken and vegetables with brown rice. Too full for pudding we watched a couple of episodes of the still hilarious Scottish sitcom Still Game, a bit like The last of the Summer Wine, but dirtier!
Wednesday July 15th
Another day of doubtful weather. We decided to walk along the side of the loch from the site and make it to Killin. This proved rather difficult. A footpath through the woods to the west of the chalets came to a dead end and we had to walk up to the road. After a while we found a path that appeared to lead down to the water and it did, but no further. Back on the road we continued to the gates of the power station near Finlarig. The sign on the gate said welcome so we went in. A young man operating a grass cutter initially seemed unhelpful but eventually said it was possible to make it to Killin. At this point it dawned that we would be walking a total of seven miles to the town and then another seven back, much of it on a road. I volunteered to walk back and get a car and meet the lads in Shutters Cafe in the town. It was agreed, I returned and reached the cafe minutes before the rest of the crew did. Pedometer said I walked 6.75 miles, they did 7
We started the evenings feasting with tapanards made by Ben, a paste made of anchovies and spices spread on toast and washed down with sherry. Brian had made a chili and rice, but forgot the vegetables, they are still in the freezer. Tyneside Blonde and cycling, a pleasant evening.
Thursday July 16th
The plan for today was to climb Ben Lawers but doubtful weather and tired limbs helped persuade us that a flattish walk would be a better bet. Norman proposed a walk he knew from Kenmore at the east end of Loch Tay to Aberfeldy, mostly on a path that followed contours. Cars were organised in the same way as Sunday's expedition and we started walking from the Crannog car park in Kenmore.
Car park in Kenmore. The triangle shape at top left is the roof of the Crannog. A crannog is a type of house built some 2500 years ago, consisting of a round house built on a platform above the water and joined to the shore by a walkway. The one in Kenmore is a replica, surprisingly! We went round it last year and the centre is well worth a visit. There were at least 18 crannogs on Loch Tay.
For this walk rely on OS 51 to start but most of the walk is on OS 52 which I haven't got. However the walk is very well signposted, you could do it without a map.
From the centre we headed along the road south west to the hamlet of Acharn. Here a sign post points uphill to the Hermit's Cave and Circular Walk. We followed it up the slope to woodland where we came to the said hermit's cave, more like a tunnel which brought us to a viewing platform overlooking a waterfall.
on the platform near the waterfall.
From the cave we climbed a little more before joining the Rob Roy Way heading north east to Aberfeldy. We crossed fields and walked through woodland until we came to a road near Tombuis Cottage. We sat on the side of the road to eat lunch before continuing on our way. The views over the valley were spectacular, in the distance we could see Schiehallion, this area is certainly not the Appin of Dull as it is named on the map.
Schiehallion in the distance.
On the downside one stretch does go through a plantation which was being harvested and looked a mess of tree stumps and log piles. Eventually we came to a signpost that gave us a choice, a footpath to Aberfeldy or a footpath to The Birks of Aberfeldy. We opted, at Norman's insistence on the latter. The path wandered through birch woods until we came to a second waterfall.
The braes ascend like lofty wa's
The foamy stream deep-roaring fa's
O'erhung wi' fragrant spreading shaws,
The birks of Aberfeldy.
(verse three)
Actually he was trying to persuade a young lady to go up there to admire the view. And quite right, it is impressive, and from the falls it's a long long way down to the town on a well constructed path with steps on the really steep bits.
This walk was longer than Norman had thought. GPS said 12.3 miles, pedometer claimed 11.3 with 32100 steps.
Friday July 17th.
During the night it rained, heavily and with thunder. Most of the morning it rained heavily too but by lunch time we decided we needed to get out at least and went to look round Killin. The town has one or two points of interest. We visited the long house at Moirlanach, which is owned by the Scottish National Trust and only opens on Wednesday and Saturday but we did get to look through the window. This old building was home for a family for several hundred years up to the 1960s. The family at one time were self supporting, keeping a few cows, chickens and sheep, growing vegetables and a crop. One end of the building housed animals over the winter, the other end was home. Shame it was shut.
We also visited the ruins of the castle, more like a bastle house. The grounds contained the graves of some Campbells, nineteenth century Campbells that is.
Ruins of the castle.
For dinner that night we had a Moroccan style lamb stew with apricots and couscous. Followed by ice cream and a sweet wine. Didn't we eat well?
Saturday July 18th
Up early, fed, watered and packed by 10am and we cleaned up a bit too before leaving for home after another very successful Gentlemen's Week. Next year; The West Highland Way.
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